Over the past few years, there’s been a shift in the anti-aging skin care market. Consumers have begun to demand more products to address hyperpigmentation-related signs of aging over fine lines and wrinkles.  Achieving an even skin tone has evolved as one of the most important concerns women and men want to address.    
 
The main pigment that determines skin color and tone is melanin.  The chemistry, quantity, character, collection and distribution of this melanin are major factors in skin tone and color.  Most of the cells that produce melanin are located in the basal layer of the epidermis at the dermal-epidermal junction.  In humans, pigment in the skin and hair protects against the harmful effects of sunlight.
 
Often times, different areas of the skin can become darker than the surrounding skin, resulting in an uneven appearance.  Some of the most common causes of hyperpigmentation include:
 
Sun Exposure
The main function of melanin is to absorb the harmful rays of the sun.  Too much sun exposure and the skin produces dark spots as a method to protect itself.  Short wave ultraviolet light causes epidermal pigment cells to increase melanin formation.  This process takes several days to a week to be noticeable chemically.  Long wave ultraviolet light rapidly alters the melanin polymer causing it to become darker (immediate darkening). 
 
Hormones
A very common form of dark spots is known as melasma, also known as “pregnancy mask”.  This is thought to be caused by the female hormones estrogen and progesterone.  Pregnancy, birth control and even hormone replacement therapy can be some of the more common causes of melasma in women. 
 
Skin Trauma
Wounding or injury to the skin causes vigorous proliferation.  Some examples:  scratches, abrasions, lacerations, waxing burns, excessive extractions, razor bumps from in-grown hairs, and scars from acne blemishes.  Those with darker skin tones are more susceptible to lingering dark spots from trauma. 

Many spas and doctors can easily treat hyperpigmentation with skincare services and topical skincare products.  There are two types of treatments for hyperpigmentation:  physical (exfoliation) and chemical (exfoliation & skin lightening).  Exfoliation, either manual or chemical, will help remove layers of skin to help remove the dark spots.  There are topical products that have skin bleaching / brightening / lightening ingredients that will help to fade the existing hyperpigmentation.
 
Five Popular Hyperpigmentation Treatments
 
 
1.  Topical Ingredients
 
Hydroquinone – suppresses pigmentation by blocking the activity of tyrosinase.  Side effects are rare, but can include mild skin irritation.  When used in combination with corticosteroid cream, the effectiveness is increased.
  
Tretinoin cream (Retin-A) – a form of Vitamin A that helps skin to renew itself.  Be sure to avoid sun exposure. 

Glycolic acid – an acid derived from sugar cane that is used to help dissolve the bonds that hold skin cells together.  When the bonds are dissolved from between the surface dead skin cells they slough off, revealing new fresh skin. 

Kojic Acid – Most commonly derived from mushrooms and is a mild inhibitor in the formation of pigment.  It’s a popular ingredient in products that help to lighten skin. 

Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate – A brightening active, which acts by inhibiting tyrosinase activity.

One of the most important aspects of any good skincare treatment is the use of skincare products in a home care routine.  Daily use of highly effective products is a crucial component of reaching any skincare goal.  Treating hyperpigmentation with topical ingredients is a vital part of the overall treatment plan.

2.  Chemical Peels
One of the most universal services in the skincare industry, peels can range from very mild enzymes to more advanced and powerful combinations of acids.  There are many types of peels that will help to remove dead skin cells, while some will also act as a skin brightener.   
 
3.  Dermaplaning
This treatment is performed under physician supervision.  A scalpel is used to gently scrape the surface of the skin removing dead skin cells.
 
4.  Microdermabrasion
Treatment involves a vacuum massage of the facial skin that is combined with either aluminum oxide crystals or a spinning diamond tipped head that are whisked across the skin removing dead skin cells.
 
5. Laser Resurfacing
This physician only service is one of many options.  Laser resurfacing treatments are for tone, texture and elasticity.  These treatments can be very mild and only treat the very top layers of the skin and deliver noticeable results on a small scale with virtually no down time.
 
No matter the cause of a person’s hyperpigmentation, there are options for treatment.  Skincare professionals have access to an assortment of products and treatments that can help reduce and virtually eliminate troublesome dark spots.  Every skincare client has unique needs; the products and services needed to treat each person are based on their skin type, type of hyperpigmentation and their budget. 
 
About the Expert
Ottmar Stubler is the president of PFB Vanish (www.pfbvanish.com), a topical gel for the relief of irritation associated hair removal.  He received his California Estheticians license in 1985, and practiced through 1996 in San Francisco.  After establishing several wholesale distribution companies, Ottmar formulated PFB Vanish in 1999.  He remains an active educator within the industry.